Wine renaissance reaches outside the Rio Grande Valley

By Jim Maniaci
Cibola County Bureau

SAN FIDEL — The renaissance of New Mexico's once-prosperous wine-making industry has reached outside the Rio Grande Valley region into Cibola County's high country.
Antonio and Lucinda Trujillo explained their labor of love with their Guadalupe Farms & Vineyard to the Grants-Cibola County Chamber of Commerce lunch audience of more than three dozen people last week at La Ventana restaurant.

In the Spanish mission days, Muscat grapes were grown because they could withstand the climate, and the wine was for priests to use at Mass. Thus it was not in popular competition for civilian consumption and didn't have to have an appealing taste.

However, the state's high desert altitudes and ideal soils sparked the modern return of the ancient industry several decades ago to the oldest wine-making region in the U.S. But only one of the recognized 19 soon to be 20, with the Trujillo's farm vineyards was outside the Rio Grande Valley area, stretching from Taos on the north to the Texas border at El Paso.

Next year the map will have to be widened as Antonio said he is applying for all the necessary licenses to convert Guadalupe named after Our Lady of Guadalupe into a commercial winery.

Lucinda explained after the chamber meeting that on Sept. 10 and 17 about four dozen friends helped them harvest Muscat, Reisling and Viognier grapes from about four acres of hand-planted and cultivated land. They collected an estimated 3,500 pounds of grapes, which will produce about 200 gallons of wine or just under 100 cases with 12 bottles to a case. Next year, the third year after planting, some Gewurztraminer grapes will be ready.

The Muscat and Viognier are white French-origin varietal wines while the Reisling and Gewurztraminer are German-origin white wines.

Because they will be limited to such a small volume of wine, the Trujillos plan to carve a niche in the high-end market. Antonio told the chamber crowd that because of the cold winters, red wine grapes are not feasible, so it will be only white wines coming from Guadalupe.

As to the taste of his vino, Antonio called his Reisling a crisp wine, with a pear and citrus flavor. He credited the local water and volcanic soil.

He said he moved to Cibola County five years ago, seeking a new direction. He said three things are very important to he and his wife: First is their spirituality, second their family and friends, and third is nature.

"We have a strong passion for God's creations," he said, such as "What God has given us with the beautiful scenery in Cibola County."

Returning to San Fidel, about 15 miles east of Grants, came naturally to Antonio, as his grandfather had vineyards in the area 70 years ago.

Although, "I knew something about grapes," he knew he didn't know enough. So he and Lucinda traveled to the Sonoma, Calif., area to research the wine-making industry. One master kept asking him why he wanted to get into the business. Finally he admitted, "I feel a calling," turned to his wife and said, "Let's go do it!"

Then they went to a New Mexico wine group convention where they loaded up with technical data.

This was in 2000. The next year they planted a quarter-acre of Muscat because it can survive frigid weather down to 9 degrees below zero.

"What's so special is that we were going by the seat of our pants," Antonio said. "But there were little signs that kept us going with hopefulness."

With the Muscat doing so well, they ventured into the Reisling, which makes up about half their acreage, he indicated. Although the vines are at 6,400 feet above sea level, "The south-facing slopes (of Mount Taylor) in the heat of the day ripens the grapes beautifully," he said. Add in the nutrients of the volcanic soil and the long days, "they ripen in a shorter season," he explained to the business community.

He advised that the legal limit allows 100 gallons of the fermented alcoholic beverage for personal consumption. Thus, this year the Trujillos can only produce 200 gallons of their four varieties; however, he figures at peak production as a commercial operation, Guadalupe's four acres could produce up to 800 gallons.

In aiming at the more pricey end of the market, Antonio said he really doesn't want to produce more than that and doesn't use any herbicide, pesticide or insecticide on his fruit

As to the cost of the venture he commented, "Some things cost less than expected and there were some surprises." He didn't want to go into details. Much of the work he and his wife did themselves, thus reducing what would have been paid in labor.
He must be doing it right because he won a bronze award at this year's state convention for the first bottle of the season.